Split City Survival Guide - Part Two
Similar to other places where tourism drives the local economy, prices are generally inflated, even more so in areas frequented by tourists. As a rule of thumb, unless you care about the view, avoid the restaurants along the Riva and the city’s main squares. Honestly, many restaurants popular with locals do not embody the typical Dalmatian experience that most tourists seek. Also, tourism has permeated the city’s economy to such a degree that it is difficult to find places untouched by its curse.
When it comes to restaurants in Split, the simplest option to experience traditional Dalmatian cuisine is to go to a “Konoba” (roughly translates to the tavern); online reviews on Google and TripAdvisor are generally a solid indicator of a restaurant’s quality despite the usual manipulations. Since there are often a lot of restaurants grouped in a small area, do not just sit in the first one, however difficult that might be when the traveler's hunger strikes.
Enjoying a drink is different. Despite the inflated prices, Riva is still popular with the locals as the main place to exercise their daily coffee ritual and indulge in their beloved pastime of people-watching.
For a more authentic experience, visit a regular neighborhood cafe earlier in the morning. You’ll be surprised how busy some of them can be. It is entirely normal in Split to see a person sitting alone in a cafe for what seems to be an unusually long time, slowly sipping their espresso while perusing the local newspaper. Going for a drink, whether alone or with friends, has become an essential part of many people's lifestyles. Everything from business deals, job interviews, casual gatherings, or daily meditations often happen in cafes.
There are three important things to know about coffee drinking in Split. First, most people do not particularly care about the quality of coffee, as long as it is strong enough and the waiters are pleasant. Second, coffee in Split is consumed slowly. Very slowly. I advise all Italian readers to stop reading and skip to the next paragraph. A single espresso in Split can easily last up to an hour. Coffee is the ultimate excuse in Split. It is all about the socializing aspect of it, or a way to have some alone time. The final point might appear to conflict with the first one, but despite not paying much attention to the brand, blend, or degree of roast, people in Split are ridiculously specific about how they prefer their coffee.
A waiter from Split documented 54 different ways people have ordered coffee. While the rest of the world adheres to the time-honored names of espresso, macchiato, and cappuccino, in Split, these names are taken to an entirely different level. Some of the most bizarre requests were: “a small coffee, with cold milk, but served in a large cup, and a glass of water, but the ice should be placed in first, then the water”, “a large coffee with warm milk filled only to half of the cup, but without foam”, “large coffee with warm milk, but only with foam”. Being a waiter in Split is not a simple job. For tourists, I do not recommend going to such complexities when placing orders, but one can be more specific if they so desire. You can specify whether you would like a small or large coffee (large does not mean Starbucks large, it is still quite small), warm or cold milk, and if you would like to add cream, either in place of milk or together, known in Split simply as coffee “mix”. Here is a helpful dictionary:
- Kava - Coffee
- Mala - Small
- Velika - Large
- Toplo mlijeko - Warm milk
- Hladno mlijeko - Cold milk
- Šlag - Cream
Like most countries, Croatia has its fair share of stereotypes. While we in Split primarily perceive ourselves as honest, temperamental Southerners who love good company, good food, and drink, one will occasionally encounter different interpretations. The most typical is the stereotype of the lazy Dalmatian (meaning people who live in Dalmatia, not the dog), now increasingly fueled by tourism and the rise of renting apartments through Airbnb and Booking.com, upon which many people have come to depend for their livelihood. While this type of work does not equal the standard 9-5 routine, for most people, renting is a side gig combined with their regular jobs, and is far from the “money falling from the sky” argument.
However, we are partially responsible for perpetuating this stereotype. Especially in Split, the prevailing atmosphere is one of taking things slow and being laid-back. Calling us lazy is a complete misjudgment of our character. We simply love to rest and relax. If that is a crime, we plead guilty. Work in Split always gets done but at its own pace. Taking things easy is the city’s mantra. The most important word in Split is “pomalo”. It translates to “slow”, “slowly”, “step-by-step”, “take it easy”, etc. In Split, this word is also used as a greeting, substituting for both “hello” and “goodbye”. It can also be used to casually yet resolutely refuse a request.
My boss: “I need you to answer the latest e-mail.”
Me: “Pomalo. I’m doing something else right now.”
The “pomalo” lifestyle might seem idyllic initially, but it comes with serious drawbacks. Do not be surprised when at an almost empty restaurant, the waiter takes an incomprehensibly long time to take your order. If you are accustomed to getting everything immediately and without delay, this may not be the city for you.
There is one exception to this rule in Split when people act in direct contrast to the “pomalo” attitude, and that is when they enter a car. In this scenario, the usually laid-back citizens of Split transform into nervous, impatient demons who overreact to the slightest inconvenience. Slow, insecure drivers or those who do not respect the right-hand rule are the usual victims of juicy profanities hurled by nervous drivers. While the anger is justly deserved in some cases, in others it is purely silly. There is no greater nightmarish scenario for a local driver, than driving behind a car with German license plates, duly following the speed limit.
(While driving in Croatia, please respect the traffic signs and speed limits.)
The predominant religion in Split and Croatia is Catholicism, with days such as Christmas or Easter being national holidays, while city day celebrations are usually tied to the Christian saint considered the city’s patron, such as St. Duje (Domnio) in Split. Yet, an astute observer of Split’s life will notice a peculiar phenomenon. The overwhelming prevalence of murals, graffiti, scribbles, and writings all over the city referring to the local football team. It is not far-fetched to claim that the local football team Hajduk is the overarching religion that unites even the most disparate opposites.
Of course, there are people in Split who do not care about sports and do not support any of the local teams, but every group has its heretics. If anything, Split is a sports town. Split has produced over 70 Olympians who have collectively won more than 90 Olympic medals, either as natives of the city or as athletes representing Split's teams. Hajduk is not the most accomplished sports team in Split, but throughout its long history, it has become an integral part of the city’s identity. The local fan group called Torcida is the largest, most organized, and most fanatical of all similar supporter groups in Croatia.
All of this means one thing. While you are in Split, Hajduk is the greatest Croatian football team, and not Dinamo Zagreb. Expressing this view alone will often be enough to befriend many people in Split.
A simple rule of thumb in Split is to stay away from the Riva and most open squares for food. The better restaurants are usually a bit outside the old town, or tucked away in the labyrinth of alleys. For traditional food, go to restaurants with “konoba” in their name. Coffee drinking is a popular pastime of many locals, which is why there are cafes everywhere. Locals also take a long time to drink coffee, so an espresso can easily last an hour. Generally, people in Split are laid back and the motto is “pomalo”, which means slowly, or taking it easy. The predominant religion is Catholicism. Split has had great athletes who, combined, have won more than 90 Olympic medals, although football and the local team Hajduk Split are like a religion in the city.
In Split, as in the rest of Croatia, tipping is customary in restaurants and cafes. It is also customary to leave tips for other services, such as deliveries, but there is no general rule regarding this. The amount left for a tip can depend on several factors, most importantly the quality of service and the total amount spent.
A typical rule of thumb when tipping is to round up to a certain number. For example, if the total price in a restaurant is 90€, generally people would round up to 100€. Or if the price for drinks in a cafe was 3,20€, some might round up to 3,50€ while others might go up to 4€. It is entirely acceptable to leave a larger tip if the service is exceptional or no tip if the service is poor, and you have to wait a long time for your food and drinks.
Another factor is that basic salaries for such jobs are low since it is expected that the tips will contribute to the person’s income. Cultural factors play a role as well. Stinting on tips is frowned upon because the prevailing belief is that if you have enough money to go out to eat and drink, you also have money to leave a tip. This is especially true for large orders. Ordering the most expensive items on the menu, such as bottles of wine or champagne, and then not leaving something extra for the staff is a surefire way to demolish your reputation.
Yes, tip in Croatia. Unless the service is horrible. Then do not.
Croatian is the language spoken in Split, but even those who do not know a single word of Croatian will have no difficulty communicating (the name of the country in Croatian is Hrvatska, the language is Hrvatski, and the people are Hrvati). Nearly all communication in the tourist industry is conducted in English, and overall Croatians have relatively good English skills, especially the younger generations. English is now a compulsory subject starting from the first grade in Elementary school.
It is possible to stumble upon locals who speak German and Italian, as these two languages are either popular choices for a second foreign language in school (in the case of Italian), or because many people have relatives or have worked at some point in their lives in Germany. Due to the popularity of Mexican telenovelas in the 1990s (Televisa Presenta), some have learned Spanish, while French is still being taught in the Alliance Françaisein Marmontova Street. Locals who speak other foreign languages will be hard to come by, although our northern Slavic cousins might find many words in Croatian similar to those in their languages. Finally, the country’s name in our language is “Hrvatska”.
The language of locals in Split is Croatian but many people know English, so there should be no problems in communication.
Split is Croatia’s second-largest city, a regional center, and the administrative capital of Splitsko-dalmatinska County (the capital of Croatia is Zagreb). The city currently has a population of slightly over 160,000 inhabitants.
The most important historical site is the Diocletian’s Palace, which together with the rest of the old town, forms the UNESCO World Heritage site. Even today, locals refer to the UNESCO part of the city as “the center”, and in spoken conversation one often hears “we are going to the city”, meaning they are going to the old part of town. The abdication of emperor Diocletian in 305AD and his arrival at the palace the same year is usually considered the founding year of the city, even though a true organization of city life emerged around the 7th century. The city’s patron saint is St. Duje (his Latin name of Domnius is often used in English writing), a Christian martyr from the time of Diocletian. The city’s cathedral today bears the saint’s name, and the city day celebration, known as Sudamja, is held in his honor.
Outside the old town, popular places to visit in Split are Marjan Hill and the beaches along the southern coastline. Marjan Hill is a nature reserve and the only place offering a respite from the city’s dry asphalt. It also offers the best panoramic views of the city and its surrounding area. One of Split’s greatest advantages is its beaches; many within walking distance of the old town. Another popular attraction is the city’s stadium Poljud. If you are in Split during a football match, attending the game is a good idea even if you are not a fan of the sport. The stadium’s design still leaves people in awe to this day.
Even though the city originated in the Roman Empire, the arrival of the Croatian tribe in the 7th century defined its ethnic identity. For most of its history, the citizens of Split relied on trade and agriculture for their livelihood, a practice that continued even during the 19th century and the beginnings of modern industry. The majority of Split’s peninsula was covered in vineyards and olive groves, and historically, wine was the city’s essential export, its fortunes rising and falling depending on the success of the harvest. Rapid industrialization, as seen in Western European cities, only occurred in Split after WWII and the formation of communist Yugoslavia, when the new regime focused on the development of heavy industry, drawing tens of thousands of people from the villages to the cities. Within four decades, Split grew from a city of 40,000 to a population of 200,000, and its vineyards were replaced by modern neighborhoods for the newly created working class.
Compared to many places in Croatia, Split was not as severely affected during the Croatian War for Independence (1991-1995). The fighting never reached the city, and the extent of destruction was drastically less than, for example, in Dubrovnik. The immediate post-war period and throughout the 2000s was a time of stagnation and slow decline for the city’s once impressive industry. It was not until the early 2010s that a new chapter began with the rise of tourism.
The population of Split is around 160,000, it is Croatia’s second-largest city, and it is just over 1700 years old. The main historical core is called the Diocletian’s Palace, which was the residence of Roman emperor Diocletian from 305AD until 316AD. Today, the “palace” is Split’s oldest neighborhood. Besides the old town, popular places in Split are Marjan Hill, Poljud Stadium, and the beaches.
In 2010, Split recorded fewer than 200,000 arrivals. In 2014 that number had already doubled, and in 2023 Split had just under a million arrivals. The exponential rise in tourism completely transformed not just the city’s economy, but its appearance and feel. The overcrowded and dingy, but soulfully charismatic old neighborhoods were filled overnight with trendy souvenir shops, overpriced restaurants, bars, and Airbnb rentals in almost every building. Millions of Euros were invested in cleaning and conserving old monuments and parts of the palace, so tourists today are greeted by the shiny white stones, instead of the dark, patina-covered walls, traces of which can still be seen in isolated areas.
In the post-WWII era, the city's identity was that of a strongly blue-collar, gritty, working-class harbor city with a recognizable Mediterranean flair. While some aspects have remained constant, the switch to a service-based economy has changed many facets of life in Split. Prices of apartments and rent have skyrocketed, making Split one of the most expensive places in Croatia concerning property prices. The same has happened to prices in restaurants and supermarkets, so much so that the majority of Split’s restaurants are not tailored to the average Croatian wallet.
The most visible aspect of this change has been the prevalence of Airbnb rentals in touristy parts of town. In the past 20 years, Split has reduced in size, from a population of 200,000, it had gone to a population of just over 160,000. The recent trend has been for young families to move out to nearby cities such as Solin, Kaštela, Klis, or Dugopolje. Split was not exempt from broader Croatian demographic trends. Just in the previous decade, Croatia's population declined from 4.2 million to 3.8 million. Naturally, this led to a shortage of workers in the tourism sector, which is now supplemented by workers from Bosnia and Serbia who come during the tourist season, and in the last two years, by people coming from Asian countries. Opposition to tourism has not been as vocal in Split as in some other European destinations, although a small but consistent group of Split's intellectuals has been openly critical of the over-reliance on tourism and the city's economic monoculture.
The worst part about the city’s tourism is that for reasons unknown to us locals, Split has the reputation of a party town, so in July and August, the city streets are filled with student-age travelers who primarily seek the pleasure of Split’s nightlife and bars. Every year, newspaper portals in Croatia shock the public with articles and videos of rowdy tourists who urinate and defecate in front of house entrances in the early morning hours, or who sleep shitfaced on the sidewalk while grannies pass them on their way to buy groceries. There have been numerous instances where tourists had buckets of water dumped on them from the nearby windows for being too loud. However, so many people in Split today depend on income from tourism that it has become virtually impossible to imagine the city without it.
Tourism dominates the city’s economy. It has been both a blessing and a curse, since on the one hand, it had brought much-needed commerce to the city, but also it raised the cost of living, rent, and property, making Split one of the most challenging cities in Croatia for young families.
Final Thoughts
There might be a few things to get used to when you arrive in Split, but overall if you have traveled anywhere in Southern Europe and the Mediterranean, there should not be any big culture shocks, or any problems adjusting to Split’s life. As long as you are ready to go with the flow and take things “pomalo”, you will have a wonderful time in Split.