Split City Survival Guide - Part One
Introduction
If you are reading this article, it means you are already in Split, or you just booked your accommodation, have your flight ticket, and are now in that hyped-up research phase where you want to learn all about Split. In any case, welcome to my city. Split is a beautiful town with plenty of history and culture, nice beaches, great food, and overall pleasant, though sometimes grumpy locals.
Like any other tourist town, it can be hectic and overwhelming for the senses. We don't have a reputation in Croatia for being 'the craziest town in the world' for nothing. This guide is written to give travelers the most essential survival tips for Split, and I recommend that everyone read it first before exploring all Split has to offer.
This topic is pretty long, so I have split it into two parts and added a TL;DR for each section. Click the arrow symbol to skip ahead.
First, let’s discuss the most common ways tourists arrive in Split, which for most visitors involves traveling through the airport. Split Airport is situated about 30 minutes by car from the city center, and there are three primary ways to get there. The simplest option is to take one of the shuttle buses that connect the airport with the city center. The price for a one-way ticket is 8 euros, and they operate on a frequent schedule during the main tourist season. The shuttle buses end at the main intercity bus station, conveniently located in the harbor, next to the old town.
The cheapest way to reach Split is to take the local bus, line number 37, which connects the cities of Split and Trogir. Because this is a regular city bus, it's the slowest option, as it stops at every bus stop along the way. Make sure you board the bus heading in the correct direction. While it's not a disaster to end up in Trogir instead of Split, you'd lose time waiting for the next bus to Split. Unlike the airport shuttle, the local bus finishes at Solinska bus stop, which is about a ten-minute walk from the old town.
The fastest and most comfortable way is to take a taxi, but you need to be cautious. Like in other tourist towns, some taxi drivers may charge exorbitant rates for a ride to Split (up to hundreds of euros). A good rule of thumb for taxis in Split is to check the prices on apps like Uber or Bolt. Even if you don’t plan to use these apps, they can give you a good estimate of how much a ride should cost. Then, you can use this information to negotiate the fare with other taxi drivers. Try to agree on the price beforehand or get an estimate from the driver if they use a taximeter.
If you arrive in Split by bus or train, you're in luck. Both the bus and train stations are in the harbor next to the old town, which means your accommodation is likely nearby.
If you come to Split by car, ask your host for the best place to park. They can offer tips and tricks, and your accommodation might even have reserved parking spaces for guests. Remember that the old town in Split is a pedestrian zone, so don’t try to get too close or leave your car on the side of the street. Certain streets have special regulations, so you might get fined for driving through them or risk having your car towed if you park in a spot reserved for delivery vehicles. If your accommodation is in the heart of the old town, look for designated parking lots nearby and leave your car there until you check in. Once you have settled in and left your bags, put on your walking shoes and stretch your legs.
Since most tourists come to Split by plane, the simplest option to get to Split city is to take the airport shuttle bus, the cheapest is the local bus nr. 37, and the fastest is the taxi. Taxis can overcharge, so it is advisable to use Uber or Bolt, either for the service or to check the prices. For anyone coming with a car just watch where you park. Those arriving by bus or train finish at the harbor by the old town.
Split is a convenient city to get around. Most popular places and sights are situated close by, and depending on where your accommodation is, they can all be reached on foot. Walking is without a doubt the best way to see Split. The oldest part of town, the area of the Diocletian’s Palace, and the Medieval part of the city are condensed into a fairly small area and almost an exclusive pedestrian zone. Then there are the kilometers of beaches along the waterfront, perfect for an early morning or late afternoon stroll. The heat during the summer months can make getting around on foot challenging, but as long as you stick to the shade and bring enough water, there shouldn’t be any problems. Also, sunscreen is a must between June and October.
To visit places further from the old town, or if someone’s accommodation is on the city outskirts, besides taking a taxi, local buses are the simplest option to get around. Their signalization and printed schedule on the bus stops is not the greatest (if there even is one), so familiarize yourself with the various bus lines on their website. A ticket for the ride can be bought on the bus, or their official app. The app also has a list of all bus lines, stops, and live GPS bus tracking. Tickets are also much cheaper on the app than with the driver, so downloading it is a good idea if one plans to rely on buses for transportation.
I recommend that you walk as much as possible. You will see so much more of the city, and get a better feel for it, plus, you will be taking advantage of one of the best things Split has to offer, which is that it is generally a very safe town…
Simply walk as much as possible. Watch out for the heat so bring sunscreen and a water bottle. For longer distances use the local bus or taxi. If you plan on using the bus, download their official app.
…but that doesn’t mean that you should abandon all reason. Split is a safe town with low crime rates. There are no bad neighborhoods or places you should avoid, even at night. However, a healthy dose of precaution is necessary. Make sure you take care of your valuables in crowded public spaces and transportation. Do not withdraw money from the ATM alone at 3 am. Don’t bring all your documents, credit cards, and cash to the beach. All you need to bring to the beach is a towel, hat, sunscreen, phone, ID, and a ten-euro note tucked into the front of your sneaker behind a sock while swimming. If you have traveled to any metropolis, or any country with security concerns, you will be more than equipped to handle any situation in Split.
Split is a very safe city and crime is low, but exercise a healthy dose of caution in crowded areas to avoid pickpockets, and do not bring all of your valuables to the beach.
Theoretically, you could spend your entire vacation in Split and pay for everything with credit cards. Croatia has made huge strides in the past decade in making electronic payments widely accessible. Even so, having some cash with you would still be best. If you plan to pay at restaurants with credit cards, to avoid any awkward situations, check with the staff beforehand. Most restaurants accept cards, but some still do not, and worse, they do not advertise it until it is too late.
When taking out cash at an ATM, you will need to do a bit of your own research. A few years ago, ATM companies and banks exploited a loophole in the law and spread through the city’s tourist areas like the plague. ATMs became a huge business in Split, and although the local government has tried to curb their expansion, it still feels like there is a cash machine on every corner. Your main choice is between regular bank ATMs or privately operated ones, such as Euronet or 24cash. Make sure to check which ones charge lower fees and commissions.
In 2023, Croatia made the switch to the Euro, abandoning our old currency, the Kuna. This is highly convenient for travelers from the Eurozone, but if you need to exchange money, be aware that some exchange offices offer horrible rates. Click on this link to go to the websites of the Croatian Central Bank. Whenever exchanging money, try to get the rates as close as possible to those set by the central bank.
Do some research on which ATMs charge the lowest commission. Usually, it is regular bank ATMs. Most places in Croatia take credit cards but have some cash at hand if necessary.
Split is a great city from which to take day trips. One-day trips can easily be taken to places like Dubrovnik, Mostar, Zadar, Šibenik, Krka Waterfalls, and even Plitvice Lakes, but besides maybe the Krka National Park, by far the most popular excursions are to the Central Dalmatian islands of Brač, Hvar, and Vis. The islands have been tourist destinations long before Split, and many tourists still visit Split only for a day or two, before they depart for the island where they spend most of their vacation.
Getting to the island is easy. The two options are to either take the slower ferry or the faster catamaran. The two main companies operating the boats are the Croatian national company Jadrolinija, and the other is the private company Kapetan Luka. There is no significant difference between the two companies, and for both, tickets can be purchased online or at their ticket offices in the harbor.
What you have to be mindful of, is that there won’t be any information from which pier the boat is leaving, and it is something that can change based on the situation in the harbor. It is a good idea to ask the information office or to check the digital panels along the harbor to find the correct pier number. For easier reference, the pier numbers start closest to the old town, with pier number one starting at the beginning of the Riva.
If you plan to visit the islands in your car, first say a prayer to your chosen deity, or if you are an atheist, pick one just for this occasion, then throw a pinch of salt over your shoulder, walk three steps backward, and spit on the ground, or just do whatever is supposed to bring good luck in the country you are coming from.
I don’t mean to scare or intimidate you, I am just trying to prepare you for what is often an excruciating ordeal, especially if you visit in July and August. The number of people that go to the islands with cars is huge. Traffic to the harbor is often slow, and there can be kilometer-long lines of cars. Arm yourself with patience. A lot of patience, if you are visiting in peak season. When you finally make it to the harbor, follow the signals to know in which lane you need to park your ferry for a particular island. Do not hesitate to ask questions of the port authority personnel. It is better to ensure you are in the correct spot than to spend hours waiting for the ferry, only to realize you made a mistake and the ferry you lined up for goes to an island whose name you have never even heard before. Sometimes, there will not be enough space for all the cars so you will be stuck waiting for the next one. Remember to be patient. Take a deep breath. Read some stoic literature. It is all part of the wonderful Split summer experience.
The last thing to keep in mind regarding the islands is to make sure you understand your actual destination. It may sound straightforward at first, but as an example, Hvar is the name of both the island and a town on the island. The ferry to Hvar Island goes to Starigrad, while catamarans go to either the town of Hvar or Jelsa. You would not be the first people to spend two hours on the ferry only to realize they ended up on the wrong side of the island. If they even realized their mistake in the first place.
Split is a perfect place from which to visit the islands. Purchase the tickets online or at the ferry port. Be sure to know which exact town on the island you are going to since boats often go to different places on the same island. If you plan on visiting the islands with a car, be patient. Everything will be ok in the end, you will make it there eventually.