Must Try Foods in Split

Originating from the villages of Poljica south of Split, soparnik is one of the most unique Croatian dishes to try during your stay in Split. It originated as a peasant’s food during times when the villages were under the Ottoman Empire, and its deceptive simplicity is what gives the dish its special character. In essence, soparnik is a pie. Its dough is made from flour, water, and salt, and is filled with swiss chard. When baked, olive oil and garlic are spread on the warm pie, soaking in all the flavors. However, the secret to making soparnik is that it is made on an open fireplace. The large pie wheel is covered directly with hot ashes and embers which are later brushed off. This is why a proper soparnik can only be found on the food market, where local suppliers still make it the traditional way.

Where to try it: the local green market Pazar. Try to get there earlier in the morning to find it.

Not to be confused with the classic Italian fried rice balls, in Split, arancini is the name for candied orange peels. Along with limuncini, which are candied lemon peels, they are the old-school candy of Dalmatia. Orange or lemon peels are first kept in cold water, then boiled to release the bitterness and finally, are cooked in sugar syrup, rolled in granulated sugar, and left to dry. Perfect as a sweet snack throughout the day or as a gift, the best place to find them is in the local markets.

Where to try it: the local green market Pazar

The most festive of all local dishes, and a staple on almost all wedding menus, pašticada is the pride and joy of every good cook in Dalmatia. Also, it is one of the most elaborate local dishes, since its preparation begins a few days before the actual cooking when the big chuck of a beef round is marinated in red wine, vinegar, and vegetables. Then, the meat is slowly cooked with vegetables until it is tender, and prunes, sweet dessert wine, and vinegar are added to give the sauce its iconic sweet and sour taste. The meat is cut into large steaks and are traditionally served with gnocchi.

Where to try it: if you want the really good stuff, befriend a local. I have yet to try a pašticada in a restaurant that is better than one made at home. Otherwise, you can go to some place like Buffet Fife which has made a name for itself on such dishes.

You either love it or you hate it, but this iconic Dalmatian dish is a favorite of any true seafood lover. Made from cuttlefish and flavored with the squid’s ink, giving it its strange black color, few dishes can measure up to the rich umami taste of this risotto. The only downside is that for a short while, your teeth will give away that you were eating it, but all gourmands wear it like a badge of honor.

Where to try it: any half-decent konoba should do the job.

One of the simpler but more effective Dalmatian dishes, buzara is made by cooking mussels or scampi in a sauce made from olive oil, parsley, white wine, and garlic. Towards the end of cooking, a spoonful of breadcrumbs is added to lightly thicken the sauce. It can be eaten both as an appetizer or a main course and is traditionally eaten just with bread, which is used for soaking up the sauce.

Where to try it: it is a very simple dish so most places do a good job. It will be on the menu of every konoba.

Every grill master knows that the perfect grill is a form of art, and it is the same in Dalmatia when it comes to grilling fish. The Adriatic is a sea rich with tasty fish, best eaten simple and fresh. Here, fish is always grilled whole, as it helps to keep the meat tastier and juicier, and it is seasoned only with salt, olive oil, parsley, and garlic. The classic side to grilled fish is boiled potatoes with chard and a portion of mixed salad. It all sounds blatantly simple, but the taste of a fresh, first-class fish from the grill is one of the few ways for humanity to approach divinity.

Where to try it: Konoba Otprilike Ovako Konoba Fetivi Noštromo

Just like soparnik was the pie of peasants, komiška pogača was the pie of fishermen. Invented on the island of Vis where they are still locked in an eternal struggle about which pie is better, the one from Vis or the one from Komiža, komiška pogača usually is the popular favorite. It is made from a simple dough filled with sauteed onions, tomato sauce, and salted anchovies. Great as a snack on the go, it is not an easy one to find in Split, but the bakery Kruščić does a great twist on the traditional recipe.

Where to try it: Kruščić Bakery

When it comes to fast food in Split, this is a sandwich town. It is true that people here love to eat the Bosnian ćevapi or burek and you will find no shortage of burger joints, but the one fast food item that is beloved in Split that you will not find in other parts of Croatia is topli sendvič, or in translation - the warm sandwich. It is on the menu of every fast food in Split, and the way it works is that it usually comes as a bun with ham and cheese that is warmed in a sandwich press, after which you choose the fillings yourself. My recommendations for the fillings are mayonnaise, ketchup, hard-boiled eggs, pickles, corn, and green salad.

Where to try it: Kaleta. Hands down still the best sandwich in town. A bonus is they make their own dough.

The most famous type of rafioli come from Trogir, but Split also has its version of this Dalmatian classic. Made from pastry filled with an almond or walnut paste, this iconic cookie is usually made on holidays such as Christmas and Easter, or on occasions like birthdays and weddings. It is one of those pastries whose recipe is passed down from generation to generation and a classic Split rafiol can be had in the city’s oldest pastry shop, Tradicija.

Where to try it: Tradicija Bakery

Traditionally made around Christmas time, fritule is a favorite local comfort food. These balls of fried dough are like mini donuts, often made with raisins and sprinkled with a generous amount of powdered sugar. Sweet and unhealthy for the body but medicinal for the soul, fritule is one of those foods that go straight to the heart. New variations of this classic keep popping up every year on the Christmas Markets, and there’s nothing like a fresh bowl of fritule to get one in a festive mood.

Where to try it: Goluzarije, but they make it only in the afternoon.

Read my other guides:

• Split City Survival Guide Part One
• Top 5 Places to See in Split
• Split Restaurant Recommendations
• Best Bars in Split